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Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

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Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby Karl Klavon » Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:16 am

The 7.5 Oz. Coke can / 5.5 Oz. V8 can stove had problems with the space being too tight between the two cans to easily assemble the burner, so I have come up with a better solution - the 16 Oz. Bud Light Aluminum Bottle / 5.5 Oz. V8 Can Sub 4 Min. Burner.

Fuel Cup: The Bottom of Bud Aluminum Bottle cut @ 1 7/16” height for over all length.

Inner Cylinder: Remove the paint if desired while the can is full, and then empty it. Invert the can and drill a hole in the center of the concave surface, and in large the Fuel Fill Port Hole to 7/8 of an inch in diameter. Then cut the over all length to 1 ¾ inches. Add 3 to 4 half round fuel vents to the bottom (open side) on the inner cylinder with a ¼” paper hole punch, and your Inner Cylinder is complete.

A Ceramic Fiber Paper Wick Source: https://www.fire-parts.com/products/ceramic-fiber-paper-gasket-sheet
Cost: $ 9.95, Shipping, $8.00 Priority Mail 2-3 Days or so delivery.

Making The Wick: The material comes as a 1/8” thick X 12” wide X 24” long sheet. Measure up 1 ½” inches and draw a line with a pencil and a straight edge across the 12” width side, then cut off the 1 ½” wide X 12” long strip with scissors. Now measure L to R, 1/4 “ inch in at the top of the strip, and 3/4” of an inch in at the bottom of the strip, and draw a diagonal line between the two marks. Now measure and mark 7 and 1/8” inches down from each diagonal mark on the strip and mark a second time, and draw a second diagonal line, then cut on the two diagonals and the wick is complete.

Putting The Burner Together: Roll the wick around something like a broom handle, loosen slightly and insert it into the Bud Fuel Cup and release. The Wick will spring out and keep it going in that direction with your thumbs, forcing it out and against the walls and down into the U-shaped junction of the bottom and sides of the fuel cup. The wick will overlap slightly when you meet the juncture point, so keep working it around until the two ends drop down and into place with a little prodding. Now what you should have is a fuel cup with a ring of wick material that sticks up about 1/8” of an inch above the top edge of the aluminum fuel cup.

With the fuel vent side of the Inner Cylinder facing down, start to insert the inner cylinder into the fuel cup/wick assembly. This will be a tight fit and it will not go in all the way in by itself. A thin, narrow knife blade stuck between the protruding metal edge and the wick material, and worked around it to pull the wick material out enough get everything in place. When everything is straightened up nicely, gently push the inner cylinder down into the wick until the bottom of the inner cylinder meets the bottom of the metal fuel cup and you can see the wick slightly protruding out of the fuel vents, which you will be able to see by looking down through the Fuel Fill Port Hole.

Curing The Burner: The Ceramic Fiber has an organic binding agent included in it as part of the manufacturing process that has to burn out before the wick will work as intended. The binding agent will leave a sticky amber residue behind on the metal surfaces above and below the exposed wick, which can be cleaned away with alcohol and a cloth. On the first burn, the flame will sputter, spark, and flare up considerably. Things will settle down on each successive burn and all of these problems should be gone by the 3rd or 4th burns.

Conclusion: The Bud Light Aluminum Bottle is made of a much stiffer and more sturdy material than the 7.5 Oz. Coke cans are, making for a much stronger burner. The bonding agent glues the wick to the metal surfaces it touches, making the burner even more rigid yet. The wick is cut slightly over sized because it shrinks some while burning and will snug down just about right after repeated burns. You can put the whole 7.5 Oz. Coke can inside of the Bud Light Fuel Cup with some room to spare. Plus the Bicycle Spoke Pot Stand grips the bigger Fuel Cup more securely than it does the Coke can. All in All, not a bad burner.
Karl Klavon
 
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Re: Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby brianb2 » Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:30 pm

Pics?


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Re: Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby Karl Klavon » Thu Mar 23, 2017 1:07 pm

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I guess I should explain what is being shown here in the photo. From the bottom working up:

1. The burner is sitting on a red Silicone Trivet (with a Diamond Plate texture) that is covered by a layer of High Temp. Aluminum Insulating Tape, cut to the pot's diameter. It is a heat reflector for the burner, and evens out uneven surfaces you may set up on, and protects burnable materials the burner may be lighted on, and also insulates the alcohol from cold surfaces.

2. The Bicycle Spoke Pot stand folds flat for transport and centers the Burner under the pot, it also holds the Burner in place, and provides the magic 1" pot lift for the fastest boil times.

3. The black Can Insulator has an 8 Oz. Nalgene Wide Mouth Jar in it (of which there are two) and the other one has the Tea Pot sitting on it above the Wind Screen. These are the one pot meal cooking and eating utensils.

4. The blue Can Insulator has a Rubber-Made Juice Box in it for hot drinks. In making a meal, the hot beverage is made first. That way, by the time the two one-pot meals are made and eaten the drink is not as likely to scald the drinker.

5. The yellow Can Insulator has a 12 Oz, Sig Aluminum Bottle sitting in it for multi-day trips, with the Trangia spring loaded and locking fuel dispenser and bottle cap being the black and red thing you can see at the top. Weekend and 3-day trips can be covered with a 2 Oz. Energy Drink plastic bottle, which can be carried in the tea pot with the burner.

6. The Wind Screen is a MSR Heavy Foil model that came with the first MSR white gas stove that I ever bought, some 40 years ago now.

7. The tea pot is a Primus .9L Litech Kettle, with a 30.32 Oz. volume capacity, and is 6.0" in Dia. X 2.2" high, and weighs 5.3 Oz. The pot is the carrying case for the burner in its own Zip-Lock Bag, a 35MM Film Canister that measures out 1 Oz. of alcohol and also carries a small Bic Lighter inside of it in its separate Zip-bag.

8. To light the burner, you light the wick. No priming is needed and no waiting for a bloom, you get an instant blue flame right from the get go. The burner can be lit with the kettle on the pot stand, but the wind screen is a tight enough fit that it is easier to put the wind screen on the lit burner and then lower the pot into the wind screen. The flame pattern is vertical and it gets narrower as it goes up to the pot, so it covers more of the pot's bottom than side-burners do.

9. The Wind Screen is folded flat, the Pot Stand is folded flat and set on the connecting wind screen seem , a plastic Teaspoon with the handle shortened to match the wind screen width - 6.25" goes in at the top of the wind screen. There is also room in there for another lighter or two. Then the Wind Screen is folded around the pot stand, lighters and spoon and secured with rubber-bands, and this should have its-own Zip-bag to protect the lighters.

10. The Clam Shell style Silicone Pot Gripper clamps around the handle on the spoon side of the folded Wind Screen and is held in place by a couple of more rubber-bands. The Wide Mouth Jars are not just dead space and provide a safe place to carry oil in a back pack. A HumanGear, 3 Fl. Oz. GoToob Bottle filled with olive oil goes in one and or meals already made up can be carried in them both. Just add hot H2o, wait 5 minuets and you are all ready to eat. Dehydrated and freeze dried foods have little to no fat in them because it does not keep well. Adding fat with the evening meal allows you to sleep warmly, well, and helps to do away with food cravings we all experience on backpacking trips. Olive oil has 3,000 calories per pound. And that's about it.
Karl Klavon
 
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Re: Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby Karl Klavon » Sun Mar 26, 2017 10:25 am

There is no particular magic in either the Bud Light Aluminum bottle or the V8 cans, it is just that they happen to be the proper sized outside diameters to utilize the 1/8" thick Ceramic Fiber Wick properly. Although I believe that the domed bottom structure directs the alcohol to the wick more efficiently than a flat bottomed can would. So, any two aluminum cans of any make of the proper size could be substituted in their places with equal results, I am sure.

16 FL. Oz. Bud Light Bottle...........OD. 2 and 5/16"s

8 FL. Oz. V8 V*Fusion Can...........OD. 2 and 1/16"s

For comparison the 7.5 FL. Oz. Coca-Cola can has an Outside Diameter of 2 and 1/4"s, which makes the 1/8" thick wick too tight of a fit as the thickness of the can material is subtracted from the internal space times two. The Ceramic Fiber is readily compressible though, so the reduction insures a snug but not overly tight fit in putting a burner together with the above two cans.
Karl Klavon
 
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Re: Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby Rob Ruff » Thu Apr 13, 2017 3:24 am

Nice little alcohol stove. I have one made from a Venom energy drink can and carbon felt is used as the wicking material. I also have a fancy feast hybrid and again the carbon felt is the wick. Just another alternative to the wick material you are using. Home Depot sells it as a "hands free heat shield."
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Re: Bud Light/V8 Alcohol Burner Update

Postby Karl Klavon » Mon Apr 24, 2017 8:21 am

To Rob and all. If you will go to the Sub 4:00 Minuet Coke/V8 Can burner/stove post below, there is a video address given there for Hiram Cook's video shown on the shrinkage problems encountered when using Carbon Felt as a wick. Ceramic Fiber does not have as great a shrinkage issues or problems. Also if you wish to stay with the Fancy Feast can format in your stove making, the ceramic fiber paper is also available in the 1/4" thickness from the same supplier listed above....Karl.
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