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Color Management, with Larry La Rue And Phil Rabideau

A place to discuss techniques and rigging options for use in "non-mountain stream" areas such as lakes and warm-water areas, as well as non-traditional tenkara techniques such as nymphing.

Color Management, with Larry La Rue And Phil Rabideau

Postby Karl Klavon » Sat Apr 13, 2019 5:41 pm

Karl Klavon
 
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:01 am

Re: Color Management, with Larry La Rue And Phil Rabideau

Postby Karl Klavon » Sun Apr 14, 2019 12:32 pm

Introduction: While the article put up above does a great job of speaking of Color Management for itself, I believe the first four photos that appear in the article warrant some further explanation:

Photo #1 shows a stack of Wacky painted fishing lures as they would appear in a store or in natural (White) day light, which needs to be compared with the same stack of lures as they would appear in Green colored water, then in Blue (Clear) colored water, and in Red/Brown colored water. Please note how degraded all the colors become and how they change for each different watercolor condition, and how the only colors that really jump out at you are the Fluorescent Colors that have a longer wave length than the color of water they are being viewed through. In most cases the color of the water determines the background coloration the lure will be viewed against. Fish target their food by sight. Lure Contrast with the Background color the lure will be viewed against is all important - Anglers do not need to camouflage their lures from the fish they are trying to catch.

In Photo #2, we see the same stack of lures in Green colored water conditions, which is a very short range vision distance condition. Notice that all the colors are degraded except for Fluorescent-Red, FL-Pink, and FL-Orange. Fl-White also shows up very well as does Black and Blue in Green colored water conditions. For Metallic finishes - here gold is the best but Silver will also do very well at short range distances in direct light.

In Photo #3 the same lure stack is viewed in Clear/Blue colored water conditions. Blue colored water is a long range vision condition, yet all the lure colors dull down considerably except for FL-Chartreuse, FL-Green, FL-Orange, FL-Pink, FL-White and FL-Blue. For Metallic Finishes, Silver is good at short range in direct light but gold is better under rainy or overcast conditions.

In Photo #4 the same Lures are being seen through Red/Brown stained water conditions, where the most visible colors will be Fl-Chartreuse, FL-Green, and FL-White. Black, dark Blue as well as Purple will give a strong silhouette in this exceedingly limited vision distance situation. And this is another lighting condition where Gold really shines for the Metallic finishes.

Conclusion: I searched long and very hard before I was able to find Photographic representations of how the different colors work in the water as the fish view them. What happens to light and colors in water is a function of Physics and not really up for human conjecture. Whether anglers choose to believe these statements or not does not alter how things really work in the natural environment, and how fish see color. Hopefully, this little effort will move knowledge a little farther along for interested anglers.....Karl.
Karl Klavon
 
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:01 am

Re: Glow-In-The-Dark Tinsels

Postby Karl Klavon » Mon Apr 15, 2019 11:05 am

In the above post I failed to mention the Phosphorescent Tinsels (and the older White Yarn that was the first of this kind of product line to come along), which are now available in White, Yellow, Orange, Green and Pink for the Tinsels. The main selling point on these products is the fact that they can provide light where there is little to none available after being charged up by an artificial light source, or being left out in the sun while you fish all day long getting ready for the evening fishing. Night fishing isn't allowed everywhere for trout.

While the White Glow-In-The-Dark Phosphorescence will readily show up in light and darker Blue colored waters even in daylight, as well as in Green and Red colored waters. But in the Red/Brown colored water it may prove to be too bright and turn the fish off from striking. Light and Dark colored waters are a function of the depth at which the fish are to be found, and where the fly needs to be fished in order to catch them. So the deeper you need to fish a fly or at night, is where the Glo-In-The-Dark-Materials really have a chance to shine. In daylight - not so much.

As for them being offered in 5 different colors, in my humble opinion, this is a somewhat dishonest attempt by the makers to improve their profit margins at the expense of trusting anglers, because the fish will be running on their Rod Cell vision where Phosphorescence works the best and the fish will only be able to see Black, White, and in shades of Gray. So White is the only "color" that you really need - which shows up as a some what muted pale green in the dark and does not last all that long. The longer it is exposed to a bright light source, the longer and brighter it will glow in the dark if you really nead that kind of material.
Karl Klavon
 
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:01 am

Re: Color Management, with Larry La Rue And Phil Rabideau

Postby Karl Klavon » Tue Apr 30, 2019 8:50 am

If you are an angler who ties your own flies, you are probably well aware that the hooks we tie our flies on are essentially a blank canvas. Now I have no wish to see Larry La Rue and his Wacky Lures go out of business, but fly tiers have little to no need for his services and artful creations - we can make our own fly/lures in what ever configuration suits the fish's fancy.

And if you have fished any kind of Kebari fly patterns at all, you will also have probably liberated your angling mind from the Western Angling need to be constantly Matching-The-Hatch and the supposed necessity of having to create fly patterns that actually look like real insects in order to catch fish.

Once you make that connection, you can begin creating fly patterns based on what we know about how trout see and how they will react to the various stimuli that we can build into our fly patterns. Things like pressure wave stimulation of the fish's Lateral Line system with the use of Hackle movement and other fly tying materials movement on the flies we tie, and the Luminosity (light shinning through the bodies of potential prey) of the materials that we tie our flies with, and the back ground contrast and coloration, Light on Dark and Dark on Light patterns on the water background space light the fish will see the fly against, and on the tying materials that make up the flies themselves whether they are translucent and/or opaque, as well as Reverse Counter-shading, which indicates that the fly/prey is a sick and/or an injured individual and thus an easy meal to be taken advantage of by predatory fish.

In designing our flies there are visual criteria that need to be taken into consideration, the most important of which is Target Detection. In other words we should try to make our flies as easy for the fish to see as possible against the backgrounds they will be viewing them against, with an acceptable 3-D design and an attractive Overall Brightness profile. Adding in other stimulatory components can override the visual acceptability factors to a large degree, and is strongly recommended.

There are two factors that govern Target Acceptability: Color/Hue and Behavior. Of the two, Behavior is by far the most import in eliciting strike responses from feeding fish, territorial/aggression strikes, and far less frequently for fear strike responses. And this is where Attractor Patterns really can come into their own. (Attractor flies do not look like any particular food form but often use a bright color to illicit a strike response - think Hot Spots of bright but limited surface area of Fluorescent Colors here.) Including Prey and not Predatory Eyes on a fly pattern will also be very effective, and this is where Black Bead Heads work a lot better at imitating eyes than the shinny beads do. All of these design elements combine to put attractor patterns into a Super-Stimuli-Exaggeration class of Lures, as demonstrated by the many Red/White and Yellow/Red plug colored lures that fill successful guide's tackle boxes the world over.

Reverse Counter-Shading is also a highly effective fly design element to use. Counter Shading is describing the fact that the coloration of most fish and aquatic insects is dark on their backs, progressive lighter on their sides, and white to nearly white on their bellies. Reversing the order of the shading appears out of place to predators, indicating that it is a sick or an injured individual swimming upside down and an easy meal for a predator to take advantage of. So, please include some of these design elements in your fly tying and try them on the fish. Let the fish tell which ones they like the best, and take note of the water color (Blue, Green or Brown) and water temperature (Cold, Cool, or Warm) the respective material colors work the best in. Tight Lines.
Karl Klavon
 
Posts: 647
Joined: Wed Mar 02, 2011 10:01 am


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