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Trouble Casting - Quick fix

Trouble Casting - Quick fix

Postby tenkgsb » Wed Jul 05, 2017 10:34 am

I was having issues with the line piling up and not moving forward, while practicing in the backyard my son told me that I need to think about "pausing" at the 12 o'clock position so the line could get "behind" the rod, then proceeding to the forward cast. This little tip solved my casting issues. It was an eye opening revelation for me that I wouldn't have noticed on my own. If you're having issues, try not to rush the forward cast, think pause at 12 o'clock , set the line behind rod and then cast forward. Helped me a lot , thought I'd share .

Cheers from New Mexico
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Joined: Wed Jun 21, 2017 5:37 pm

Re: Trouble Casting - Quick fix

Postby dwalker » Mon Aug 14, 2017 10:50 pm

tenkgsb wrote:I was having issues with the line piling up and not moving forward, while practicing in the backyard my son told me that I need to think about "pausing" at the 12 o'clock position so the line could get "behind" the rod, then proceeding to the forward cast. ....
Cheers from New Mexico

Pausing briefly at the 12:00 position before starting your forward cast will prevent you from starting your forward cast before the tip of the rod has flexed rearward, so that that the spring power built into the rod can assist you to cast the line. The pause may even prevent you from starting the forward cast before the rod tip has passed the vertical position & is still actually bent forward a little. Pausing is a good way to avoid that.

Some suggestions for how you might improve your casting if you'd want to take the time to read them.
[I might even have a good understanding of it. Or maybe not. Either way - It's my theory of what happens while making a Tenkara cast. It's what I keep in the back of my mind as a model of what makes a good cast while casting. The goal being to get to a point where it's no longer thought about, and the cast is done without conscious thought ]

To step up your casting skill to the next level it might help to understand good casting is not so much concerned with pausing to allow the line to get behind the rod. As it is about proper timing and rhythm of the cast. Only start the forward cast at the instant when the rod tip is at it's maximum reward flex - so that the maximum spring power built into the rod will cast the line and not the speed you move your arm & wrist. [in reality, try to get as close to that instant as possible, not an easily perfectly learned skill. I'm still far from getting there.]

When you have learned to get it right - the line may still be moving rearward when you start the forward cast. And not yet behind you. The pause time will become shorter, and shorter, to the point of almost no noticeable pause at all.

Think of a stretched spring. It will have its maximum stored energy at its maximum stretched length. Then think of the flex of the rod tip as being a spring that cast the line. The more the rod tip is flexed the more spring energy the rod has to impart into the line to help cast the line.

When you stop your back cast at 12:00 your hand stops moving. The rod grip section of the rod tip stops moving. But the rod tip will still be moving rearward. Storing energy. That can help cast the line.

If you start your forward cast 1 msec after the maximum rearward rod tip deflection is reached the maximum power will be available to help cast the line. The position of the line is mostly not important. Actually part of the line will be stopped, the end attached to the lillian. The middle of the line loop onward to the end of the line & the fly may still be moving rearward. When you have started your forward cast.
(a lot of line will still be moving rearward if it's a long line, such as a 5m ~ 6m line or longer)

Maybe the diagram on the Honda website will help you visualize the principles I am trying to explain. Even though the diagram explanation text is in Japanese.

Scroll down to the bottom diagram. Labelled キャスティングの手順 [ Casting Procedure ]


Step 1 - you are just reaching the back cast stop position at 12:00. Your arm is no longer moving. Or just barely moving. At first the rod tip is still flexed forward.
(if you start you forward cast at that position your cast will be terrible. This may have been what you were doing before adding the pause)

Pause a little longer and the rod tip continues to flex rearward to its maximum deflection, where it has the most stored power that can be used to add power into the forward cast.

Step 2 - is just an instant later at the point of maximum rearward flex of the rod. The line loop and fly are still moving rearward.
[if your casting a long line over 6m long, the fly will still be visible in your peripheral vision high and in front of where you're standing]
This is the instant when you start your forward cast.
Earlier or later, and you lose some some of the spring power from the rod.

Step 3 - Your arm is moving forward. Moving the rod forward quick enough to be ahead of the rearward rod tip flex. Notice the end of the line at the fly is just finishing its rollover, the line just beginning to pull straight and move forward. At least that is the case with a line about the same length of the rod. For a line longer than 6m (18ft) the line might still look more like the position in step 2.
[note : if you start the forward cast moving your arm with to much power or to fast, the middle of the line will tend to loop down in the middle toward the water. Start kind of slow, increasing the speed of your arm linearly, till maximum speed is reached just before reaching the forward cast stop position]

Step 4 - shows a few milliseconds after the stop at 2:00,
(60˚ from vertical, but 1:00 to 1:30 30˚ ~ 45˚ might be better, 2:00 the maximum)
The rod tip is continuing to move forward, actually flexing past the straight rod position, toward the point of adding the maximum spring power into the line to make the forward cast. The end of the line at the lillian has almost stopped moving. the line loop is still rolling out forward.

Step 5 - shows the moment of maximum rod tip flex forward. The maximum spring power from the flex of the rod has been imparted into the line.

Step 6 - the rod tip had rebounded, actually flexing up or back, past rod straight position. This movement actually pulls the line a little helping the line to whip or continue to roll out forward to maximum casting distance.

Step 7 - the rod tip oscillates as little as it settles as the rod assumes a state of no rod tip flex, the rod is straight. Just an instant before fly splash down on the water surface in Step 8

AND, hold the rod with a light grip. Especially important at the end of the forward cast. It will help the line tip to settle faster, making the cast more precise, keeping the line from jiggling the kebari around along with other reasons.

Hope this helps more than confuses. Better casting comes not so much from the pause at the back cast stop. But more by perfecting Timing and Rhythm. So that the rod's spring power does more of the casting than the movement of your arm and/or wrist.

Perfect Practice Makes Perfect Cast. And imperfect practice implants bad casting habits. Anyway, being an analytical minded kind of guy I like to try to figure out just what happens during a cast to make them work. Building a casting model in my mind. Then try not to think about it to much as I cast, believing my subconscious mind will lead me to improving my casting as my casting gets closer to matching the casting model. Or my subconscious will guike me to understanding my model or wrong, and needs to be adjusted. [ getting the timing and rhythm right takes a long time, and a lot of casting. None of us approach the skills of guys who have been doing tenkara cast for 20 years or more]

Good Luck, Get out and fish. Have Fun :)
Tenkara is fundamental fishing fun
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