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A Faster, Easier Way To Tie Tapered Kebari Fly Bodies

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 3:43 pm
by Karl Klavon
While the video to follow is not dedicated to tying a Kebari fly, the method demonstrated illustrates a quick and easier way to tie life-like tapered bodies that will give much more action in the water than thread wraps can. Please Take a Look:

And here is one of him tying a Tenkara Fly:

Strengthing Fragile Body Materials With Wire Ribs

PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 12:32 pm
by Karl Klavon
Of coarse, fragile body materials, like marabou, pheasant tail, ostrich and peacock herls, have a tendency to get shredded up quickly by the trout’s teeth. Ribbing wire has been used to solve this problem for hundreds of years now. And while this adds some complications and extra steps that many Tenkara fly tiers may not see any need for, ribbing makes a number of positive contributions to the finish fly that makes doing it all well worth going to the extra effort it takes. Such as: Adding Light-On-Dark and Dark-On-Light-Contrasts to your fly pattern, the sparkle of internal gases that raise aquatic insects to the surface at emergence, life-like segmentation to the body profile, and the addition of a mild amount of weight to better break the surface tension and get the fly a little deeper in the water column, with out the unnatural plunge of the fly that lead wraps in the body and/or tungsten beads at the eye of the hook can produce.

And, if you have any desire to experiment with the advantages that Fluorescent fly tying materials have to offer, FL-Wire Ribbing is a safe and easy way to get into this realm of fly tying with out running the risk of turning the fish off by including too much FL-Material in a fly pattern you're tying, and over whelming the trout’s highly sensitive color vision eye cone cells. Here is a link to a buying sight with a picture of the colored FL-Wires offered, which are on the bottom two rows of the pictured wire spools, and marked with FL- and then the appropriate corresponding color:

FL-Colors retain their full brightness at distances where regular colors shift, first to brown, then a dark brown, and eventually to gray and finally black. With red being the first to go, then orange, followed by yellow, green, light blue, dark blue, purple, and black in that order. In clear water, light is lost in a depth and/or a viewing distance between the fish's eye (or your eye) and the fly, of 22% in the first 1/2 inch; 45% in the first 3 feet; and 78% in 33 feet. But this rule does not necessarily apply to FL-colors. FL-colors should not exceed 30% of the total surface area of the fly to work well, and even Hot Spots must be used with great caution to not turn the fish off. A FL-rib, especially when veiled by a wiggling variegated soft hackle, seems to provide just the right amount of seductive stimulation to get the job done for a knowing angler. And yet, a completely naked FL-rib on a Kebari or a Killer Bug pattern has proven to be quite effective as well.

While there are at least 27 different colors of ribbing wire offered, more colors move more product but do not necessarily catch more fish. But all the colors have been a real boon for tying things like The Wire Worm, Brassies and Copper Johns. I like to keep things simple, so I go with gold, silver and copper wire colors on dark bodies, using brown copper and black wire ribs on light color bodied flies. With the FL-s, it's FL-Pink, FL-Orange, FL-Yellow and FL-Chartreuse. The other chartreuse, orange, pink and red looking, and the Hot or Metallic wire colors are offered but, if it does not say FL-, it is not a Fluorescent color....Karl.

UTC Ultra Wire Sizes And Ribbing Thoughts

PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 4:20 pm
by Karl Klavon
Well, I forgot to talk about the what sizes of the wire I am using. Ultra Wire can be bought in: X-Small, 0.009" DIA.; Small, 0.0085"; Brassy, 0.009"; Medium, 0.135"; and Large, 0.0177". Not all sizes are available in all the colors offered, with the XS being the most limited.

For the sake of simplicity, I prefer to use only the Brassy and the Medium sizes. But if I can't get the Brassy in the color I need (which has happened), I will buy the Small instead, and it has worked out all right. Most of the flies I tie are in sizes #16, 14 and 12s, and occasional as big as #10s. The Medium wire is good for the 10s and 12s. The size 14 hooks can use either Medium or Brassy sized wire, depending on the pattern being tied. The 16s and smaller should use the Brassy sized wire or the smaller sizes. But there are a lot of tiers out there who use the Small size for everything, so the size you choose to use is entirely up to you.

Dragonfly nymphs have 7 abdominal segments, Damselfly nymphs - 8, Crayfish 8, Sow bugs - 9, Midge Pupae - 9, Caddisfly Pupae, Stonefly nymphs and Mayfly nymphs - 10 each, with Scuds at the top of the list with -12 abdominal segments. How many rib wraps do you put on your flies? Most tiers put in 3 to 4 and call it good, with Chironomid pattern tiers probably being the most anatomically accurate. But most of us approach this ribbing business pretty haphazardly, if we bother with it at all.

Now, I am not going to say that the fish swim up to a fly pattern and count the body segments and refuse to take a pattern if the number is off. That just does not happen. In streams, the fish have to make a quick decision or the food form will be gone, for ever. But in still waters, fish have no time limit on how long they can inspect what they want to eat. I fish lakes a lot, and I try to make the trout as comfortable as I can with the fly patterns I am presenting to them. And a pattern that is within a wrap or two is going to be much more readily taken by the fish than one with only 3 to 4 wraps. For sure, presenting a more accurate representation of what the fish are expecting to see can't hurt your chances. At least that's what I believe.